Wasatch Trenchin' Convention 2006

~ Addendum ~
Catek Public Service Message

One amusing spectator sport at the WTC was watching people mount Catek OS2 bindings three times in a row before they got it right. Since Hardbooter.com will be at the SES demoing Cateks, we thought it would be prudent to issue a public service announcement showing the right way to mount Cateks, which will speed you through the setup process and onto the hill.


Step 1: Place the OS2 o-ring where you want the center of the binding to be located. This step is very important. The o-ring is pivotal to the new Catek linkage.


Step 2: Place the Spherical Nut on top of the o-ring.


Step 3: Place the Disc and the Elastomer Ring over the Spherical Nut.


Step 4: Then, with the medium length M6 Mounting Screws, secure the disc to the board. Two of the 4x4 screw slots closest to the Spherical Nut are wider, to allow them to work with the 3D insert pattern. When used with a 4x4 pattern, the screws on these slots will hug the inner edge of the slots. When used with the 3D insert pattern, the screws on these slots will hug the outer edge of the slots.


Step 5: Place the Power Plate, with the two Power Plate Elastomers, over the disk, then position the Power Plate for the desired binding angle. Then secure the Power Plate to the Disc using the two stubby M6 Power Plate Screws. One screw goes on each end of the power plate, even though sometimes two screw holes per end are available.


Step 6: Then, carefully stack 0 to 3 spacer rings on top of the Spherical Nut, depending on how much total binding tilt you need. If you use a lot of cant and lift, you need more spacer rings.


Step 7: Then, select a binding plate from the demo tent: If you want toe lift, select a binding plate that has two of the longer quick-cant set screws at the front of the binding, and two shorter quick-cant screws in back. Then select one of two Kingpin bolts: a shorter one if you use 0 or 1 spacers, and a longer one if you use 2 or 3 spacers. Then put an o-ring on top of the center hole in the binding plate, and tighten the Kingpin bolt to the Spherical nut. Then position the binding plate with your desired cant and lift, and double check the binding plate height: If you can get sufficient clearance with a lower binding height, then re-mount with fewer spacer rings - using fewer rings will allow more thread engagement between the quick-cant screws and the binding plate.


Step 8: Then tighten the quick-cant screws finger-tight into the tilt cups, using your desired cant and lift settings, so that each set screw gets equal pressure. Then go back and tighten each of the quick-cant screws by an equal amount (1/2 to 1 turn) to provide pressure on the Kingpin bolt to keep everything from coming loose. Make sure the quick-cant screws retain at least 3 turns of engagement with the binding plate: If not, you need to use longer quick cant screws, or lower the total binding height by using fewer spacers.


Step 9: Finally, adjust the sole blocks to fit your boots.

Then, buy a second set of OS2s for your other board, so that you don't have to do this all over again.
When removing Catek bindings, use an ice pick or small hex wrench to remove *all* of the snow in the hex cap sockets.
Most of the Catek screws use 4mm hex caps, which can strip if they get clogged with snow.