mounting cateks
thread engagement Nate W 11/28/01
Cateks Dave 11/29/01
fixed heel bail Nate W 03/02/02
Which screw? eric 11/29/01
board screws - have 16mm, need 18mm Nate W 11/29/01
talking to myself again Nate W 11/30/01
Catek eric 11/30/01
Center bolt first ?! Aspiring Montreal Shredder (Ian) 03/10/02
NO... Dave Morgan 03/11/02
heel bails Nate W 11/28/01
Nate, I seem to have the same interface with my boots (burto... lost soul 11/29/01
the missing picture Nate W 11/30/01
That sounds like a good idea, I think you are right in think... John Sproule 11/30/01
softer? Nate W 11/30/01
Depends eric 11/30/01
I prolly shouldn't respond after I've started drinking, but ... John Sproule 11/30/01
warranty? Nate W 11/30/01
results Nate W 03/02/02
The view from above... Nate W 12/05/01
The view from below... Nate W 12/05/01


Date: November 28, 2001 09:42 PM
Author: Nate W (nw58(at)
Subject: thread engagement


How much thread engagement does it take to hold Cateks on securely? I'm only getting about two turns, maybe three. I get one turn initially, and then tighten criss-cross to get another turn and a half or so. Is this enough? Am I overlooking something?







Date: November 28, 2001 10:01 PM
Author: Nate W (nw58(at)
Subject: heel bails


I bought Cateks because I heard the heel bail would be a better fit for Raichle boots, but looking at Cateks and Bombers side by side I think that Bombers actually do fit better. On the sides of the heel ledge, both bails diverge from the contour of the boot, but the Cateks more so than the Bombers. The critical point is right at the corners of the heel ledge... this is where lateral forces get transmitted to the binding. If the binding would match the contour of the boot, the interface would be solid... but since the bail diverges from the boot, the heel ledge can actually deform a bit, bending downward and wedging the bail off of the back of the ledge. I'm pretty sure this is what happens when bindings release unexpectedly.

So I used trial-and-error to cut the shape of the boot's heel ledge out of a piece of cardboard (cereal box actually). Then I traced the heel bail, then traced the cardboard over that, and shaded the area that needed to be filled in to get the bail to match the contour of the boot.

Then I looked up "welding" in the yellow pages. :-) With a little luck, by the end of the day Friday I will have Catek heel bails with extra metal welded on to match the boot contour.

Is this really smart, or just plain stupid, or somewhere in between? Maybe I should have asked before I took the leap, but I figure if I don't like it I can grid away at the added stuff before I ride. :-)

The first picture shows the divergence of the Catek bail from the boot contour. There's room for improvement, don't you think?

The second picture shows the interface upon which life and limb depends. I don't know if it's clear from the photo, but try to imagine the boot being leaned sideways, hard. The edge of the ledge bends downward... and now the downward angle of the ledge meets up the cylindrical curvature of the bail in a way that basically helps to pry the boot out from under the bail.

I didn't actually force my boot completely out of the Cateks, in testing today, but I have no doubt that I could have if I had tried just a little harder. I only stopped because I was worried that the heel ledge was going to be permanently deformed before I even got a chance to ride these boots.









Date: December 05, 2001 04:38 PM
Author: Nate W (nw58(at)
Subject: The view from above...


Cost me fifty-two bucks, plus a half-hour of fine-tuning with a Dremel tool when I got them back from the welders.