busted Raichle cant adjuster
two questions Nate W 12/14/01
Here's a good solution Brussel Sprout 12/21/01
Raichle Race cant adjuster -Not in Canada they say Dan Kaneda 01/21/02
Interesting, I did the exact same thing yesterday. Will be ... Cameron Scott 12/21/01
I just put some "epoxy" stuff... Hiroshi 02/12/02
looks good to me Nate W 02/13/02
Just back it out slowly & firmly... Hiroshi 02/13/02
... but if it doesn't come out... Hiroshi 02/13/02
And now I replaced the bolts, too... Hiroshi 02/13/02
Raichle SB series cant adjuster Dan Kaneda 12/17/01
I have fixed that screw set several weeks ago. Here is how Maciek 01/22/02
Awk! My cant adjuster just broke after only 7 days of ridin... Ken 01/02/03
Follow Hiroshi's detailed instructions Randy S. 01/02/03
So how did the epoxy work? Pat Tuttle 03/12/03


Date: December 14, 2001 10:52 PM
Author: Nate W (nw58(at)
Subject: two questions


The outside cuff-pivot/cant-adjuster on my front boot let go in a forward fall. Since then I've been feeling it popping and sliding every time I shift my weight. I have mixed feelings about this newfound flexibility.

First question: how do you take these things apart? I can loosen the bolt to some extent, then it becomes near impossible to turn the screw at all. I'm tempted to just twist harder, probably with some channel-locks on the t-nut, but first I have to ask if there's a better way (a right way) to disassemble the pivot.

Next question: how to reassemble it so it won't move again? I want the pivot to stay in the top of the slot, so I was thinking I'd probably just stick a washer or two in the bottom of the slot to take up the space. Anyone got a tried-and-true solution?







Date: December 17, 2001 10:45 PM
Author: Dan Kaneda (
Subject: Raichle SB series cant adjuster


I had a similar problem with my front foot on my SB324's, except I busted the screw trying to tighten the mechanism.

First, the end of the threads on the screw have been deformed (squashed or peened over) to prevent the capscrew from being removed. If you are lucky you can slowly back the screw out. Yes, you will need to hold the tee nut on the inside after it loosens to avoid damaging the back of the adjustor mechanism. Try not to lose the plastic spacer ring between the tee nut and the cuff.

The tee nut is threaded with a 4mm (or 5mm?) metric thread. I replaced the capscrew with one from my bicycle waterbottle mount.

As far a fixing the problem here is what I have done:

I later found that the teeth of the mechanism were worn and the mechanism would not hold, so I cut a piece of plastic to hold the mechanism in the top position, but the piece somehow fell out after about 10 days and the excess movement returned. I then used epoxy glue to fix the adjuster mechanism in the top position. This held for the better part of the year until the glue separated from the plastic of the adjuster mechanism and things started to move again.

By this time I was a bit ticked off, so to stop the movement once and for all, I made a solid aluminum replacement for both sides and have not had a problem yet in over 15 days of riding this year.

Looking back after this I would think that I would have been better off to remove the mechanism and epoxy it into place, and fill up the space below the slide with epoxy as well so it could not ever move again.







Date: January 22, 2002 08:39 AM
Author: Maciek (
Subject: I have fixed that screw set several weeks ago. Here is how


I replaced it with standard (American) hex slotted machine screw 10-24/0.5" from Home Depot.

The worst part is to make that nut. You can make it from T-nut for woodwork (they came with sort of teeth cut from collar). You have to carefully cut the T-nut so it has shape of the original one.

To disassembly cant unit you can drill the screw from outside (I forgot the size of drillbit, but do it very carefully because if you plan on reapir with american screws it is the best to keep head of that old metric screw in place (it works as precisely matched washer). The american screws 10-24have a bit smaller diameter than those metric used in Raichle cant.

Disassemblying original Raichle cant in gentle way is rather impossible. The original screw is drilled along and expanded at the end so it does not come out after loosening it in boot. It is probably done to avoid losing the screw which is stupid idea because it never loosens if properly tightened and so there is no chance to lose it in snow.

The best idea would be though to drill out the original screw then remove the crew from that shaped T-nut of Raichle cant but opposite side (not the way it is usually done). I did not succeed with that as the screw was simply stuck in the nut and nothing helped (W-40 didn't work either).

If you are still interested how it can be repaired using American screws then let me know. I could even try to take some pictures of elements I did it from ant how it looks after work. and by the way some drill is needed and I used my Craftsman/Dremel tool for that a lot. The boot works fine (and even better than original cant because there is less friction due to one more thing I did but that's just detail I could describe if you are interested) and the only thing I am thinking of improving is to replace that machine screw with some stainless steel screw to avoid that corossion from snow. The rest is fine and tight while cuff leans without any problems while being in place all the time.



Have good runs,







Date: March 12, 2003 06:57 AM
Author: Pat Tuttle (
Subject: So how did the epoxy work?


Hiroshi, Your pictures/descriptions are great. Thank you! I can't find the thread that talked about how it finally worked though. I had the same problem with my 324s, and as usual Michelle/Fin came to my rescue with spares. But now of course I'm thinking the epoxy will be the way to go before I break the others. Can you give any insight as to your results?