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| busted Raichle cant adjuster | |
two questions |
Nate W | 12/14/01 | |||
Here's a good solution |
Brussel Sprout | 12/21/01 | |||
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Raichle Race cant adjuster -Not in Canada they say |
Dan Kaneda | 01/21/02 | |||
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Interesting, I did the exact same thing yesterday. Will be ... |
Cameron Scott | 12/21/01 | |||
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I just put some "epoxy" stuff... |
Hiroshi | 02/12/02 | |||
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looks good to me |
Nate W | 02/13/02 | |||
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Just back it out slowly & firmly... |
Hiroshi | 02/13/02 | |||
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... but if it doesn't come out... |
Hiroshi | 02/13/02 | |||
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And now I replaced the bolts, too... |
Hiroshi | 02/13/02 | |||
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Raichle SB series cant adjuster |
Dan Kaneda | 12/17/01 | |||
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I have fixed that screw set several weeks ago. Here is how |
Maciek | 01/22/02 | |||
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Awk! My cant adjuster just broke after only 7 days of ridin... |
Ken | 01/02/03 | |||
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Follow Hiroshi's detailed instructions |
Randy S. | 01/02/03 | |||
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So how did the epoxy work? |
Pat Tuttle | 03/12/03 | |||
Date: December 14, 2001 10:52 PM
Author: Nate W (nw58(at)speakeasy.net)
Subject: two questions
The outside cuff-pivot/cant-adjuster on my front boot let go in a forward fall. Since then I've been feeling it popping and sliding every time I shift my weight. I have mixed feelings about this newfound flexibility.
First question: how do you take these things apart? I can loosen the bolt to some extent, then it becomes near impossible to turn the screw at all. I'm tempted to just twist harder, probably with some channel-locks on the t-nut, but first I have to ask if there's a better way (a right way) to disassemble the pivot.
Next question: how to reassemble it so it won't move again? I want the pivot to stay in the top of the slot, so I was thinking I'd probably just stick a washer or two in the bottom of the slot to take up the space. Anyone got a tried-and-true solution?
Thanks.
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=17266)
Date: December 21, 2001 11:41 AM
Author: Brussel Sprout (mark_russell_smith@hotmail.com)
Subject: Here's a good solution
I was alway's breaking the can't adjusters on my 325s so the nice people at Raichle gave me a few spares. It didn't really help though because I would always break them again on about the first or second turn, as soon as I put real pressure on the cuffs. Then I got a set of cant adjusters from their racing department and they fixed the problem.
In the picture you can see the white parts - These are the original parts with the teeth that always strip off. The black plastic parts are the 'racing' parts. They fit into the bigger white partic part and replace the smaller white platic parts. The hole in the black parts is off-centre, which gives 2 cant positions.
Good luck,
Mark.
Attachments:
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=17786)
Date: January 21, 2002 08:38 PM
Author: Dan Kaneda (dano@shaw.ca)
Subject: Raichle Race cant adjuster -Not in Canada they
say
I have tried to get the Race cant adjusters in Canada, but the distributor here says they do not exist.
Any chance you could help me get a hold of the people that know something about these parts?
I am especially interested in the solid black parts with the two fixed adjustment positions.
Sincerely,
Dan Kaneda
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=19797)
Date: December 21, 2001 12:14 PM
Author: Cameron Scott (cam_n_scott@hotmail.com)
Interesting, I did the exact same thing yesterday. Will be looking into the epoxy solution...
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=17790)
Date: February 12, 2002 10:34 PM
Author: Hiroshi (pirochu@yahoo.com)
Subject: I just put some "epoxy" stuff...
OK, I'm no "Tim - the Tool Man" handy-man with garage full of tools. If fact, I basically got nothing, but a few screw drivers.
So, if you're like me, read on...
Since I broke the cant adjuster on my SB-224s, I've been looking into T-bolt like somebody suggested, but I couldn't find any that will just match the size/width/length that I want at my near-by Home Depot, etc. I couldn't get my hands on those black metal piece by Raichle's Raching Dept, either.
So, I got some "epoxy" stuff for five bucks - the strongest recommended by a local ACE Hardware store. It's a "mix the 2 tubes together" style by "J-B Weld", with a supporting strength of 3960 PSI (whatever that means).
Since I like the centered position, I filled up the room on top & bottom of it. Here's a pix I took. I just have to "allow 4 to 6 hours for drying before handling" and then "allow to dry overnight (approximately 15 hours) before putting object to use."
I really hope this will work on the snow. I'll find out this weekend, and let you know. - Hiroshi
Attachments:
.jpg)
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=21637)
Date: February 13, 2002 02:33 PM
Author: Nate W (nw58(at)speakeasy.net)
Subject: looks good to me
I bet that works fine. I'm gonna do the same to my boots. One question though - how did you get the bolt out of the t-nut? Just massive force, or did you drill it out? Mine is stuck in there real good, and I have a hunch that threading it out will just ruin the threads in the t-nut.
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=21695)
Date: February 13, 2002 03:14 PM
Author: Hiroshi (pirochu@yahoo.com)
Subject: Just back it out slowly & firmly...
Hi Nate,
Actually, I didn't have a serious trouble pulling out these original bolts of the broken adjusters. Yes, it got pretty tight towards the end of backing it out (because the threading at the tip of the bolt is intentionally mangled a bit? - like Maciek said), but it's possible to hold the T-nut inside with a wrench or something and turn the bolt out all the way, SLOWLY & FIRMLY. Or, for some of them, I didn't even need to hold the T-nut with a wrench - I just pressed my thumb on it firmly to keep it in the groove of the white plastic, and simply backed it out slowly & firmly. (Either way, as you try to back the bolt out, be sure to press the T-nut firmly against the white plastic, or it'll try to turn and bust it or chip it off a bit.)
So, I didn't have to drill any of my old bolts, FYI. It just takes some patience - that's all.
Also, FYI, the bolts of the new spare parts available from Bomber ($5/each) has a nice threading that completes its rotation till the end of the tip, so putting it in & backing it out is very smooth, unlike the original bolts that came with your boots.
I got four pieces from Fin/Michelle, and put epoxy in all. I'll mount them back on my SB-224s tonight. I hope this really works on the snow - Will find out this weekend.
- Hiroshi
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=21700)
Date: February 13, 2002 11:28 PM
Author: Hiroshi (pirochu@yahoo.com)
Subject: ... but if it doesn't come out...
Hi Nate,
Actually, I'd like to slightly change my earlier statement about all bolts coming out relatively easily. ;-p
The 4th bolt on my pair of SB-224s was an absolute pain to get it out. After much strugle with a wrench & an allen, I almost gave up and was gonna go to a ski shop to get it drilled out. Then on the 2nd try, I finally power-forced it out, and damaged the pieces (no use), of course.
So, if it really gets stuck badly, just BUST these silly little things, and buy a spare from Bomber. :-p
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=21734)
Date: February 13, 2002 11:35 PM
Author: Hiroshi (pirochu@yahoo.com)
Subject: And now I replaced the bolts, too...
OK, so I went a little *nuts* about this thing... ;-p
After doing the 'epoxy' thing (as above), I decided to go all the way and also replace the original bolts with something better, once in for all.
So, if you were lucky enough to be able to sulvage the original T-nuts after forcing the bolts out and/or simply ordered new parts/kits from Bomber (instead of making your own unique-sized T-nuts), please read on...
Here's the measurements on the bolts & washers I purchased from a local Orchard Supply Hardware store...
BOLTS: size 10-32 & length 1/2 inch
WASHERS: size #10
TOTAL COST: a buck fifty or so - ha!
Since I'm still using the original T-nuts, bolts of this size replace the original bolts perfectly. Just place a size-#10 washer in the middle of the gray outter disk, and tighten the bolt up.
Below is the picture of what I got/did. The bolt above "A" (left set) are the original set, and the bolt & washer above "B" (right set) are the new ones from the hardware store.
Now I can use the 4mm allen wrench (instead of the original skinny 3mm allen wrench) for more ease & torque-power to tighten the bolts on my boots. (It's rather a significant increase in the wrench-size.)
After I got everything mounted back & tightened all the new bolts, all the pieces & boot-shells seemed to sit with each other quite tightly. The heads of the new bolts don't even stick out of the boots that much to be fussed about, either. Again, the 1st snow-test is not until this weekend, but I already have a good feeling about this... :-)
- Hiroshi
Attachments:
.jpg)
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=21735)
Date: December 17, 2001 10:45 PM
Author: Dan Kaneda (dano@shaw.ca)
Subject: Raichle SB series cant adjuster
I had a similar problem with my front foot on my SB324's, except I busted the screw trying to tighten the mechanism.
First, the end of the threads on the screw have been deformed (squashed or peened over) to prevent the capscrew from being removed. If you are lucky you can slowly back the screw out. Yes, you will need to hold the tee nut on the inside after it loosens to avoid damaging the back of the adjustor mechanism. Try not to lose the plastic spacer ring between the tee nut and the cuff.
The tee nut is threaded with a 4mm (or 5mm?) metric thread. I replaced the capscrew with one from my bicycle waterbottle mount.
As far a fixing the problem here is what I have done:
I later found that the teeth of the mechanism were worn and the mechanism would not hold, so I cut a piece of plastic to hold the mechanism in the top position, but the piece somehow fell out after about 10 days and the excess movement returned. I then used epoxy glue to fix the adjuster mechanism in the top position. This held for the better part of the year until the glue separated from the plastic of the adjuster mechanism and things started to move again.
By this time I was a bit ticked off, so to stop the movement once and for all, I made a solid aluminum replacement for both sides and have not had a problem yet in over 15 days of riding this year.
Looking back after this I would think that I would have been better off to remove the mechanism and epoxy it into place, and fill up the space below the slide with epoxy as well so it could not ever move again.
Dan
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=17502)
Date: January 22, 2002 08:39 AM
Author: Maciek (mmsamselATmindspring.com)
Subject: I have fixed that screw set several weeks ago.
Here is how
I replaced it with standard (American) hex slotted machine screw 10-24/0.5" from Home Depot.
The worst part is to make that nut. You can make it from T-nut for woodwork (they came with sort of teeth cut from collar). You have to carefully cut the T-nut so it has shape of the original one.
To disassembly cant unit you can drill the screw from outside (I forgot the size of drillbit, but do it very carefully because if you plan on reapir with american screws it is the best to keep head of that old metric screw in place (it works as precisely matched washer). The american screws 10-24have a bit smaller diameter than those metric used in Raichle cant.
Disassemblying original Raichle cant in gentle way is rather impossible. The original screw is drilled along and expanded at the end so it does not come out after loosening it in boot. It is probably done to avoid losing the screw which is stupid idea because it never loosens if properly tightened and so there is no chance to lose it in snow.
The best idea would be though to drill out the original screw then remove the crew from that shaped T-nut of Raichle cant but opposite side (not the way it is usually done). I did not succeed with that as the screw was simply stuck in the nut and nothing helped (W-40 didn't work either).
If you are still interested how it can be repaired using American screws then let me know. I could even try to take some pictures of elements I did it from ant how it looks after work. and by the way some drill is needed and I used my Craftsman/Dremel tool for that a lot. The boot works fine (and even better than original cant because there is less friction due to one more thing I did but that's just detail I could describe if you are interested) and the only thing I am thinking of improving is to replace that machine screw with some stainless steel screw to avoid that corossion from snow. The rest is fine and tight while cuff leans without any problems while being in place all the time.
Have good runs,
Maciek
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=19859)
Date: January 02, 2003 10:39 AM
Author: Ken (kjl(at)pixar.com)
Awk! My cant adjuster just broke after only 7 days of riding! I'm not even a very strong carver! Must have been those icy, choppy moguls I was smashing up into.
It was a much bigger pain in the butt than I would have ever imagined. I stripped out the hex screw with the allen wrench. I took it to a ski shop, which tried and failed to drill it out, but partially melted and wrecked the grey plastic disc surrounding that screw. I went home and dremel-tooled notches in the screw so a flathead screwdriver would fit in it, but it still wouldn't come out, because of its expanded end. Eventually drilled it out with the engraving attachment for the dremel tool. Bought replacement parts, but had to cut off the edges of a circular t-nut so that it would fit in the grooves. Tried to extract the large white piece of plastic from the boot (the larger piece with the teeth), but felt like I was going to break the boot before the white plastic piece would let go, so I had to epoxy the little toothed piece to the big toothed piece while it was still attached to the boot, obscured by the shin part of the shell of the boot. That was a total pain. I hope I never have to do that again, but after seeing the size and materials of those toothed plastic pieces, I imagine the others will explode soon enough :(
-- Ken
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=33899)
Date: January 02, 2003 11:27 AM
Author: Randy S. (randysalzman(at)hotmail.com)
Subject: Follow Hiroshi's detailed instructions
Ken,
I guess that's what happens when you chase me through the Pow on my home hill! ;-). Sorry to hear about the problems. Its weird because I've never experienced it with either pair of my Raichles in years of riding. Maybe I'm just too easy on them.
Hiroshi's instructions above are incredibly detailed and helpful. If you follow them I'm sure you'll be fine. He lives nearby also. You might be able to swing by his place and ask for help. I think he's down in Sunnyvale or Mtn. View.
Randy
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=33903)
Date: March 12, 2003 06:57 AM
Author: Pat Tuttle (ptuttle@goldengate.net)
Subject: So how did the epoxy work?
Hiroshi, Your pictures/descriptions are great. Thank you! I can't find the thread that talked about how it finally worked though. I had the same problem with my 324s, and as usual Michelle/Fin came to my rescue with spares. But now of course I'm thinking the epoxy will be the way to go before I break the others. Can you give any insight as to your results?
(http://www.bomberonline.com/Forums/Index.cfm?CFApp=2&Message_ID=39314)